The PLUM-4 polyvalent logic module adds fully automatic daytime running light (DRL) functionality to a vehicle's front turn signal lamps by operating them steadily when the engine is running, the parking brake is released, and the parking/tail lamps or headlamps are switched off. The turn signals still work normally; when the DRLs are on, signalling for a left turn (for example) will flash the left turn signal while the right one remains steady-lit, still providing the DRL function. Activating the hazard flashers (4-way flashers) overrides the DRL function; the turn signals on both sides of the vehicle will flash—all just like a factory installation. This DRL implementation complies with US and Canadian DRL requirements, and has major advantages over headlamp-based DRLs. Because directional signals are legally required to shine light in a wide range of horizontal and vertical angles, the DRLs are likewise visible from a wide range of viewing angles for maximum conspicuity and safety benefit in avoiding angular collisions with pedestrians, bicyclists and other motorists. Turn signal bulbs cost much less, consume much less power and have a much longer lifespan than headlight bulbs. There is no undue glare with turn signal DRLs, as can be a problem with headlamp-based DRLs. And, it's much harder to forget to turn on your full lights at night, because the DRL color is amber rather than white so you don't see misleading reflections of your "headlamps" (actually your DRLs) in shiny surfaces after dark. The PLUM-4 is all-new, and vastly improved over the previous-type
module.
Every single component is significantly upgraded, it's now fully
potted (weatherproof), it has four output channels instead of two and
higher current capacity, and it is easier to mount. The module is built
in the USA to my specifications. This compact, dependable module, when installed properly, will give years of trouble-free service. It comes with all the necessary connectors and can be installed under the hood, under the dash, or near the right or left front turn signal on a vehicle of just about any description. It is designed and intended to add an effective crash-preventive function to vehicles equipped with legitimate lamps and bulbs; it is not for use with "switchback LED bulbs" and other such unsafe playtoys. Here are three short movies of added-on turn signal
DRLs in action:
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Here is how the module gets connected into the car's wiring. This diagram shows all the hookups to add the DRL function to the front turn signals and add turn signal flashing to the front side marker lights; if you only wish to add the DRL function, you may disregard the side marker lights, their wiring, and the module's white and green wires. Click this diagram for a larger version in a new browser tab :![]() To add the DRL function, you will be making four
connections to existing wires on
one side of the car, and only two on the other side (plus one more
connection to an ignition-switched source of power). In addition to the connections at the turn signals, you will need to locate a wire that is live with +12v when (and only when) the ignition is switched on. Many cars have a fusebox in the engine compartment, and you can often find an appropriate circuit there. If necessary, you can run a wire into the interior of the car. Select a circuit that's fused for at least 15 amps. This is what the module's dark blue wire is for, and it comes with fusebox tap-in adapters for easy, safe hookup. Installation Installation should take 20 to 60 minutes. You will need a wire cutter/strippers and a pair of pliers to make the connections. You will be using wire taps. The supplied ones are an excellent type called Posi-Taps. Don't substitute the fold-over-and-crunch "Scotchlok" type taps—really, please don't; you'll regret it later. If you need more Posi-Taps, you can get them directly from the maker. These instructions assume that you will be installing the module near
the left front turn signal. If there is more room on the right side of
the vehicle or you prefer a mounting location on the right, simply read
"left" for "right" and vice-versa in these instructions.
The module's dark blue wire
gets connected to a switched power circuit&mdashone that is
live
with +12v only when the ignition is switched on. Use a circuit that is
fused for at least 15 amps. Select the appropriate fusebox connector to
make this connection or, if you have a type of fuse not catered for in
the connector selection or wish to tap in elsewhere, use a suitable
connector or wire-joining technique. This is optional. For factory-type operation of the DRLs, add a Normally Closed (or Changeover) relay in the module's ground (black) wire. Such a relay can be furnished at the time of ordering the module. Hook it up this way:
This way, the DRLs are lit when the vehicle's ignition
key is on, the parking lamps or headlamps are off, and the parking brake
is released—just like a factory installation. This allows
for the engine to be running without the DRLs operating when the car is
not moving. So: Ignition switch ON, parking brake APPLIED means power across
relay 86/86, which means no continuity between 30 and 87a. Module
has no ground, so DRLs do not light. Start the car (and release the parking brake, if you've tied into it). Both front turn signals should be steady-lit. Activate the left turn signal and see that the left signal blinks. Cancel the left turn signal and the turn signal lights will both come on steadily as DRL again. Repeat the test with the right signal. Turn on the parking lights. Both turn signal filaments should go off, and only the park filament should be on (together with the car's front and rear sidemarker lights, tail lights, and dashboard lights). Turn the lights off and the turn signal filaments should come on as DRLs. If something isn't working, double check your wiring for errors. Use tie-wraps and/or appropriate electrical tape to neaten up the wires as needed and secure them out of harm's way. Fasten the module firmly in position. |